The Middle East Premiere - Beirut, Lebanon - Oct 5, 2008

AN ISLAMIC CONSCIENCE premiered in the Middle East October 5th in Lebanon at the Beirut International Film Festival! And in my opinion formed through the discussions and responses, the audience seemed to be very pleased often times raising "Why have we never heard of the story of the Aga Khan and the Ismailis before? This is an important story that more people need to know about."

The questions, which came in rapid succession one after the other during the Q+A, ranged from people who, pre-film, knew nothing about the Aga Khan and the Ismailis to those who knew a modest amount, partially because the Aga Khan had received an honourary degree at the American University of Beirut a few years back and partially because of the horses and divorces stories.

This was the first time that none of the members of the audience, I suspect, were Aga Khan-following Ismailis (it is important to make this distinction, esp in Lebanon, as there are a few branches of Ismailism, one of which, the Nizari Ismailis, follow the Aga Khan). BUT BUT BUT I heard through a friend of a friend that there are a few Nizari Ismailis still left in Beirut. I am on mission to find at least one.

Details of the Q+A and my mission to find an Ismaili in Lebanon to be continued...

Beirut - Landed

Landed in Beirut a few hours ago - so happy to be here again.

Met up with some friends and getting excited for tomorrow (well, technically today, as it is 4am).

I am going to finally sleep in and get at least 6 hours of sleep - something I haven't been able to for the past week or more. And the good news: my crackberry doesnt work. :)

More good news: the Ministry of Culture can't email me :))

(well technically they can, I just wont get it in time)

Till tomorrow/later today, 

Sweet dreams.

Switzerland Premieres - October 12th

Join us October 12th for the Aga Khan Film's release in the German part of Switzerland. The film will be screened in English audio with German subtitles. Please spread the word.

SWITZERLAND PREMIERE SCREENINGS:

Zürich, Oct 12th, 12:15pm Uhr Arthouse Le Paris
Q+A: Islam Expert and book author Arnold Hottinger discusses with producer Shamir Allibhai

Basel, Oct 12th, 17:00 pm, kultkino camera
Q+A: Islam Expert and book author Arnold Hottinger discusses with producer Shamir Allibhai

Bern, Oct 12th, 20:30 pm, Kino Movie
Q+A: Islam Expert Prof. Reinhard Schulze discusses with producer Shamir Allibhai

Tickets available at the door.

German:

Wer ist der Aga Khan? Wer sind die Ismaeliten? Muslime und Nicht-Muslime entfernen sich immer mehr voneinander. Was haben die Ismaeliten dazu zu sagen?

Liebe Alle

Der Dokumentarfilm "THE AGA KHAN & THE ISMAILIS" entstand unter der Regie von Emmy Gewinner Bill Cran und wurde bereits in mehreren Ländern gezeigt. Nun kommt der Film in die Deutschschweizer Kinos und wir möchten Sie herzlich einladen, bei den Premièren am 12. Oktober mit dabei zu sein.

Wir leben in einer Zeit, in der der Islam sich selbst und den Westen hinterfragt. THE AGA KHAN & THE ISMAILIS geht den Dingen auf den Grund. Diskutieren Sie mit uns!

Premierenveranstaltungen

Zürich, 12. Oktober, 12.15 Uhr Arthouse Le Paris
Islam Experte und Buchautor Arnold Hottinger diskutiert mit Produzent Shamir Allibhai

Basel, 12. Oktober , 17.00 Uhr, kultkino camera
Islam Experte und Buchautor Arnold Hottinger diskutiert mit Produzent Shamir Allibhai

Bern, 12. Oktober, 20.30 Uhr, Kino Movie
Islam Experte Prof. Reinhard Schulze diskutiert mit Produzent Shamir Allibhai

Article on the Film in the Lebanese Press

Source: http://www.nowlebanon.com/NewsArticleDetails.aspx?ID=61253&MID=123&PID=2

Islam as a mosaic

A look at the Aga Khan and the Ismaili people

Alice Fordham, NOW Staff , October 3, 2008

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Imam (spirtual leader) of the Shia Imami Ismaili Muslims, the Aga Khan (C) is welcomed at the Taj Residency Ummed in Ahmedabad on May 16, 2008. (AFP PHOTO/ Sam PANTHAKY)

Prince Karim Aga Khan IV has a reputation more playboy than pastoral. This is a man who owns over 600 racehorses and who, earlier this year, spent $200 million on a yacht, named it Alamshar after a favorite horse and was said to be furious when it failed to break the world superyacht speed record. He has been married twice, both times to aristocratic European beauties, and divorced twice. All this glitter, plus all the gold (he was in 2005 the world's 68th richest person, although his second divorce diminished his wealth a little), is more widely covered than his role as 49th Imam of the world's 15 million Shia Ismaili Muslims.

Shamir Allibhai wants to change that. His film, An Islamic Conscience, premiers in Beirut on Sunday. In a world of fears about Islamic fundamentalism, he wants to paint a picture of Islam as a “mosaic rather than a monolith”, taking as his theme the Ismailis and the life of their leader, the Aga Khan, beyond the glitz.

The Ismaili people represent only a fraction of the global Muslim population, which numbers well over a billion, and as a community within Shia Islam believe that after Mohammad’s death, his cousin and son-in-law, Hazrat Ali, became the first Imam. The principle difference lies in their devotion to their Imam, the Aga Khan, who is held to be a direct descendant of the prophet and may appoint his successor from any of his male descendants.

This young director believes that the Ismailis represent a tolerance, moderation and equality to be treasured. In person, Allibhai is warm and witty, but it is clear that he sees his film as a work with a serious message, even an agenda.

He has, he told NOW Extra, wanted to make the film for years, especially since traveling with the Aga Khan and being impressed with his huge development program, but Allibhai sees it as more than a biopic. “It is,” he says, “about the Aga Khan on a primary level - who he is, the theology behind the Ismailis - the side of Islam that you don't hear much about.”

But, he continues, “on a higher level, it's about the divides between the Muslim and non-Muslim world and within the Muslim world itself. There are many people in the West who associate Islam with terrorism or bin Laden or Saddam Hussein, but there's a plurality of viewpoints within Islam.” He wanted to tell the story of a people with more moderate beliefs.

At a screening of An Islamic Conscience in Tajikistan

The Aga Khan himself, who celebrated his golden jubilee as leader this year, also presents the Ismailis as a tolerant and enlightened people. Interviewed in the film, he says, “What we are trying to do is bring this idea of intellect as part of faith forward in what we’re trying to achieve.” He also emphasizes the importance of equality to Ismailis, who pray side by side in mosques, with the women discouraged from veiling. Discussing the importance of educating girls, he condemns the, “tendency in parts of the Islamic world to see education as a trampoline to let women take positions in society which the Muslim world – or Muslims – might consider inappropriate.”

Excellent news for a world that needs more equality and education, and coverage of the Aga Khan foundation’s work in building hospitals and schools is inspiring. But still, one can’t help thinking, as one learns that for Ismailis to lay eyes on their Imam is a more profound experience than visiting Mecca, as the idea of the tithe paid to him is explained – does he really need that many racehorses? Does a spiritual leader need a resort on Sardinia? Can his followers respect a leader whose ex-wife sold her jewels at auction for millions? To its credit, the film does not shy away from asking questions – although it answers resoundingly that riches are no obstacle to spiritual leadership.

The Aga Khan himself explains patiently that Islam does not make a distinction between faith and wealth. It just states, he says, “don’t abuse the wealth. Use what you need to live appropriately and be generous with the rest.” His followers, too, vigorously defend his lifestyle and riches.

His life itself is fascinating. This Harvard-educated, charming and cosmopolitan man took on his role as imam at the age of 20, and the archive footage of his father’s huge international role in the early part of the 20th century is one of the film’s most interesting aspects. But the film also manages to squash into a few richly informative minutes the whole history of the Ismaili people.

Allibhai says that it was his “disposition as an Ismaili” that made him want to tell a story that had never really been told before. He particularly strove to speak for marginalized Ismaili communities, like some of those living in Tajikistan.

“Tajikistan,” he says, “was one place where it was definitely tough to make this film. I felt that I spoke for the silenced voices within Islam… It's not just the West who's silencing moderate Muslims. Oftentimes, Muslims pretend that there are no divides within the Muslim world itself, and it is this lack of acceptance, of tolerance, of dialogue that burdens me.

“When they going got tough for me, during the filming,” he says, “the silenced people were who we were fighting for. The people of Tajikistan were part of this. We felt that there's a huge, loyal Ismaili community out there, who have been marginalized at times. We were fighting for them.”

In Tajikistan, there was some official resistance to the dissemination of the film, but they did set up a screening in the capital, Dushanbe. But once in the country, they heard that in Khorog there were people who wanted to see the film Allibhai tells how his contacts in the area told him: “just come, don't worry, it'll be fine.”

“We were in community centres,” says Allibhai, “it was wonderful. Sometimes they would bring their own generators and plug in all the equipment and we would just set up a screen and just - go.”

Allibhai correctly shies away from schmaltz, and his film is not without bias. But it is good to be reminded, in a world where religion too often is used to justify violence and intolerance, that faith can be an inspiring and a beautiful thing.

An Islamic Conscience is showing at the Empire Sofil, Achrafieh, on Sunday October 5 at 7.30pm. For more showings click here.

Aga Khan Film - The Middle East Premiere in Beirut

From the e-mail blast that just went out:


Dear all

As the divides between the Muslim and non-Muslim world, and within the Muslim world itself, seem to be getting worse - not better - it is time to hear the story of an Islamic spiritual leader who has persevered for fifty years to bridge them. This is the story of His Highness the Aga Khan and the community he leads, the Ismailis, told for the first time through film.

Will you join us for the Middle East Premiere at the Beirut International Film Festival?

AN ISLAMIC CONSCIENCE: the Aga Khan and the Ismailis
directed by multiple Emmy-award winning filmmaker Bill Cran

Beirut International Film Festival, Beirut, Lebanon

Oct 5th - 7:30pm * Oct 6th - 5pm * Oct 7th - 10pm

Empire Sofil - Achrafiyeh

Post-film discussion with Filmmaker/Producer Shamir Allibhai

Trailer: http://www.AgaKhanFilm.org
Blog: http://agakhanfilm.blogspot.com

_oOo_

Born into a world of wealth and privilege, he devotes his life to eliminating poverty and inequality. A religious leader who traces his ancestry back to the Prophet Muhammad (PBUH), he struggles to balance the traditional with the modern.

For the past five decades, the Aga Khan has been the spiritual leader and Imam of the 15 million Ismaili Muslims in a world that has changed dramatically. From the end of colonialism and the expulsion of the Asians in Uganda to the fall of the Iron Curtain and 9/11, the Aga Khan has struggled for a common humanity in a divided world.

At a time when Islam is at odds with itself and with the West, the Aga Khan represents a voice of moderation, speaking out for pluralism and diversity, and promoting dialogue between civilizations.

But will he be heard?




See you at the screenings!

Best wishes

Aga Khan Film team

How to get to Tajikistan: Visa, Flights, Currency

It can be challenging at times to arrange your travel to Tajikistan so I write this in the hopes that people out there will find it easier to get to this wonderful, and at times difficult, country.

IMPORTANT: Patience is key :)

VISAS:
You do not need an invitation letter.
The easiest/quickest place to get a visa for Tajikistan, in my experience, is in Dubai, at the newly opened Consulate General of the Republic of Tajikistan. The Consulate is so new that none of the hotel concierge's know about it.

Consulate General of the Republic of Tajikistan (Dubai/UAE)
Dubai, Al-Safa-2, Plot 357
Street 4C, Villa Number 5
Email: dubaitajcons@gmail.com
Telephone: +971 4 394 5810
(click on map for large image):

The Consulate was able to give me a visa within a day. If you have a Western passport, I am sure it will be fine but please check the rules. You should ask for at least a 1-month visa. In Washington DC, minimum is 2 weeks I believe, but still, get a 1-month. (I originally got 2 wks, then plans moved slightly and my departure date was after my visa was set to expire).

Please note, if you are going to different parts of Tajikistan, you need additional visas. Make sure you tell the Consulate where you are going so they can advise you as best as possible. For example, going to Khorog and Gorno-Badakhshan requires a separate visa called a GBAO visa. The consulate in Dubai was NOT able to give me a GBAO visa and said I needed to get it in Dushanbe. The Tajikistan embassy in DC was able to give me a GBAO visa.

Naturally, additional visas have additional costs.


FLIGHTS TO TAJIKISTAN
There are 2 flights from the UAE to Dushanbe (the capital of Tajikistan).
One flight leaves from Sharjah and the other from Dubai. (Sharjah and Dubai are a short car ride from each other, prob 30 mins apart when there is no traffic).

TAJIK AIR: Sharjah to Dushanbe, flies once a week (Thurs early early morning)
Just call Mr Mohammedi +971 506 45 85 88 / +971 422 33 500
He runs a travel agency that deals with the Tajik Airlines flights for the UAE

SOMON AIR: Dubai to Dushanbe, flies once a week (Tuesdays)
www.somonair.com
Details from their website:
Somon Air
Republic of Tajikistan
734003 Dushanbe 100,
Rudaki Prospect
Tel: +992 44 640 40 40
Tel/fax: +992 44 640 12 34
E-mail: info@somonair.com
R. Khalikov
General Manager

Turkish Airlines also runs a twice a week service from Istanbul to Dushanbe: http://www.thy.com

I only flew on Tajik Air, aptly nicknamed Tragic Air, and so I cannot comment on the other airlines. Everything was fine on my flight there and back; there were no issues (I feel like I have to state this up front!) But when you come from the West (and most of the rest of the world for that matter) where you are told - no mandated - to wear your seatbelt, put up your food tray, turn off your mobile phone, and stop playing music on your iPod all during takeoff and landing, sitting on a Tajik Air flight is very different, and could be scary. Rules are lax. The flight to Dushanbe was a free-for-all where everyone rushed to get on the plane. Seats were not assigned on the way there, luggage was all over the place: in front of the seat, in the aisle, in the emergency exit. Quite frankly, would the emergency exit even work if it needed to be used? (the planes are "not as young as they used to be".) And here is the kicker that could speak volumes: apparently the airline's safety record is so bad that it is forbidden to fly into UK airspace. Ok, now that I told you the less-flattering details: Go. It is an amazing experience. Not once during the flight did anything happen that you would question the pilot's experience. The plane took off (albeit slowly), flew the 3-hour journey, and landed just fine without a hitch.

GETTING TO KHOROG
There is a small flight that flies from Dushanbe to Khorog. I had nothing to do with arranging this flight so I can not offer any firsthand advice except for point A:
a) find someone local to sort it out for you
b) go to a nice hotel and ask the front desk
c) alternatively, the same airport in Dushanbe that you land at, is the one where you buy the tickets to go to Khorog. Try and ask someone to show you the purchasing and collection desk - it is in the middle of the arrival and departure areas.
d) As the plane to Khorog is small, it is limited in altitude, and thus flies through the mountain ranges in certain spots. This is why flying is weather dependent. If there is too much wind or it is cloudy, the plane will not fly. As fall and winter approaches, naturally, the plane is less likely to depart.
e) Try and sort this out as soon as possible. You may not be able to buy the ticket till the day before but then go early: very early. It is a small plane with maybe 20 seats. It also seems those with connections jump the queue.
f) If you dont get a ticket or your flight is cancelled, you can try again tomorrow or there are taxis that will do the drive from Dushanbe to Khorog. People have described the drive as "amazing", "incredible" and "breath-taking" but it is "long" (approx 15-17 hrs) and "bumpy". Again, find someone local to help you sort it out if you need to.


GUIDE BOOK:
Lonely Planet Central Asia is the only travel guide I could find that covers Tajikistan:
http://www.amazon.com/Central-Lonely-Planet-Travel-Guides/dp/1741046149/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1222530449&sr=1-1

It is useful at times such as when you have to register with the government within a few days of arriving in Tajikistan. Buy the book.


CURRENCY:
I saw bank machines in Dushanbe but not in Khorog. I suggest bringing US$ (cash, not travellers checks). It is fairly cheap to eat and get around but you can spend US$25 a person on dinner at the nicer restaurants.
There are many currency exchange shops in Dushanbe so exchanging money there is not a problem. In Khorog there are money exchange spots too.
Also at a few restaurants I tried giving them US$, which they accepted, and gave the change back in Somoni (the local currency name).

LANGUAGE BARRIER:
If you speak Tajik or Russian, you will be fine. If you don't, things can be challenging at times. Very few people speak English. At the nicer restaurants, English will be fine - just getting to the location will be tough. The Lonely Planet guide book has a map which is not bad and many things are within walking distance in Dushanbe. At the nicer hotels, English will be fine too. Remember, what I said about patience? Bring lots of this.

FOOD:
a) don't drink tap water or brush your teeth with it in Dushanbe
b) food can be dodgy at times - be wary but accept it: your stomach will do somersaults at least once. Bring the proper meds as needed.
c) bring snacks with you: cookies, chocolates, etc

EXITING TAJIKISTAN:
Passport control may try and pull a fast one over foreigners saying your visa is not proper to try and elicit a bribe from you. They will put on a great act saying you cannot leave the country and if you miss the flight, it is your problem. They may ask for $100 or something ridiculous. My suggestion is don't pay and perpetrate this behaviour.

And if you go, post your stories here!

Enjoy and safe travels.

-S

The Last Screening in Khorog - Jamatkhane

While Vadim and I were in Badakhsan, it was like a mobile cinema as we drove with our gear from one location to another. We slept little as we packed our days with screenings, sight-seeing, and research. (We also ate one too many times at Delhi Darbar - if you have ever been, you know what I mean!) The screenings were an unforgettable experience - it surpassed all expectations. Many people said how kind the Tajiks are - they are and they are very generous including with their compliments. They often told me at the end of the screening how they are so happy I came with the film and that when I go back [to the West], that I have to tell my Ismaili friends that the Tajiks have not and will not forget what the Western Ismailis did for them at the end of Soviet rule when so many were starving.

The Tajiks still have a long way to go and much more help is still required.

From my perspective, the most mind-bending thing of the Khorog trip was how the government there is Ismaili. The army is Ismaili. The teachers are Ismaili. The shopkeepers are Ismaili. The drivers are Ismaili. But so are the vulnerable - they are Ismaili. The wrong-doers too, are Ismaili. I had never been to a city or region which is 100% Ismaili. Here the whole spectrum of society and its positions/roles was filled with Ismailis. Fascinating to wrap your mind around.


Tajikistan Screening No. 6: Aug 27
Location: Selkhoztehnik' sports hall, Gorno-Badakhshan, Tajikistan

We did not do any screenings on Aug 26th but continued them again on Aug 27. The screenings ended wonderfully. One screening was at Selkhoztehnik' sports hall and the other was at a local Ismaili mosque (jamatkhane).

Watching the Tajiks reaction to the film, at this screening and the other ones on this trip, was quite interesting. They were clearly moved at a number of points during the film, at times, shedding a tear or two. What I was surprised at, and probably shouldn't have been, was how during the 9/11 scene there was a unanimous ghasp. The audience was clearly upset with the crash of the World Trade Center towers. I wonder if many of them had seen this on TV before?

We spent the first 30 mins trying to fix the DVD player problems...

A lot of cute kids joined us for the screening :)

Shamir speaking to a local journalist (right)

The guy on the left is starting a library for the community. We donated a few copies of the film for it.

Tajikistan Screening No. 7: Aug 27
Location: Ismaili mosque / Jamatkhane, Gorno-Badakhshan, Tajikistan

The final screening was at a local Ismaili place of worship. The audience and I talked about our history and how it is so important for us to know it and preserve it through books, films, music and the like. If we don't tell our story, who will?

Khorog - Screenings 4 and 5

L to R: Vadim, Khurshed (the Head of KEP), and me

KEP Students

Tajikistan Screening No. 4: Aug 25
Location: Khorog English Program (Khurshed), Gorno-Badakhshan, Tajikistan

The first screening we did on Aug 25th was a mid-day showing at the Khorog English Program (KEP). KEP is a small program that is preparing students to gain important skills for their future. They have a close relationship with the Institute of Ismaili Studies in London, UK where some students of the KEP program are selected every year to go to the IIS. KEP is very clear that they want those students that go abroad to make sure they come back to Tajikistan, with their new experiences and skills, and put it to use in their home communities.

The students at KEP tended to be more inquisitive. Generally I found the Tajiks did not ask many questions in front of the group during Q+A but at KEP, I got quite a bit. The other thing I pleasantly noticed was that the majority of students here were females.


Tajikistan Screening No. 5: Aug 25
Location: Kalinin School (Gulaken microdistrict), Gorno-Badakhshan, Tajikistan

A friend Rahim Dawood put me in touch with Shavkat and he and Vadim did a great job organizing the Kalinin school screening with its wonderful turnout. (All these Khorog screenings were free by the way).

Vadim, left, translating.

Shavkat seen here on the right.